Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Canis Aureus Lupaster

25.02.2009

today set the marks for the holes in the PU-caps for the pole pieces. Did it fall back again-tried carbon paper. Pole pieces can stand out a bit, carbon paper between them, and knocked with the handle of a screwdriver in the cap so that settles well. Paint spot on headstock got the last layer, cut and polished
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Also, I've already both pickups here, once for the DiMarzio Super2 the neck position:
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and a PAF Pro for the Bridge.
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The PAF per Unfortunately unlike the original Super2, which is usually in it in this guitar, black pole pieces. And what does not fit make it fit, in a twinkling in the drill clamped and with 80-grit paper blank made:
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has paid off:
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Sunday, February 22, 2009

Urethritis Doxycyclin How Long

22.02.2009

So, two broken inlay had to be replaced again, by too shallow inlets after grinding were so thin that they were at the sites so transparent and they looked black, because the colored Glue looked so, unfortunately also chipped in places are still broken.
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After the two were new in it (the second and penultimate inlay from above) I liked three other candidates do not really .. somehow too dark overall, reflected the overall impression is always different than the others, and tw. already slightly transparent, not because some deep enough used. Since then I thought, "If anything, now.", Then I have 12, 15 and 17 Federal government also re-appointed again, and now installed FINALLY. And now everything is really good with the inlays. The old I've milled out before, not to the point, and of course the drill already equal to the depth of new inlays set. The rest got thin at the edge I heated with soldering iron and a damp cloth NEM and then levered out with a pin. The new I'm now using UHU schnellfest 2K adhesive glued, with brown grit and some black pigment, so that the glue-mix dark gray-brown. The Pattex stability was somewhat sensitive to admixture with UHU-Schnellfest gabs a very excellent adhesive results. The new inlays I then sanded with the finger and only controlled by the radius block, so I do not grind too much of the surrounding. Insgesamtalso a small egg-dance, my inlay job. Of this, I just do not make pictures, because the process was indeed previously been sufficiently illustrated.

Besides I have now probably know this, the pots and the switch used on it made the buttons, and adjusted the PU under the arch. In addition I've glued a crepe backing, to which I then attached sandpaper to sand the frame.
(note the glimmer of the inlays on the first picture = D is <3 ):

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also be found on the back of the headstock still a very ugly scar of a polishing experiment of a friend of mine who is and unfortunately I have dared to.
not ask me why I left it, luckily I did start him on the top plate back . Let Anyway, forget it happened, actually, I'm to blame.
The polishing roller was too fast and not soft enough, and was already at the first touch on the wood, drum rum were some ugly marks of molten coating.
this point, I take myself now with sandpaper (400 upwards) and Ballenmattierung that I colored with black pigment on. The hole is primed with virtually "paint" (Ballenmattierung is not a real paint, but a shellac substitute). Works very well, has been running for several nights, I'm very excited again Bottom line:

before (ever easy with 400 under):

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directly to a contract:

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here already a few passes on, will eventually only be leveled with 800 and 1200, and every two-three seconds with baby wet cloth (works perfectly, better than water because are a bit soapy) wiped off, so I do not paint with crumbs again scoring inside loop.
The right is already almost no longer visible:

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